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ABA CENTURY CLUB TRIPLima & Iquitos with Ted Floyd Bird list [PDF: 32k] Legend:
The Top 10 First, we'll do the honorable mentions: 5 memorable species from our time in Lima. __________________ Now, the Top 10: All from our time on the Amazon River and its tributaries. Saturday, 18 February 2006 Our guide was Victor Calienes, a local birder with extensive knowledge of the bird life of the sprawling Pantanos de Villa. On the drive south down to the wetlands, we saw numerous Black Vultures009 and a few passing Blue-and-white Swallows010. Our first stop was at a pier and restaurant along the Pacific Ocean, where we picked up Belcher's Gull011 [Band-tailed Gull], Franklin's Gull012, Inca Tern013, Spotted Sandpiper014, Neotropic Cormorant015, Peruvian Booby016, Peruvian Pelican017, Kelp Gull018, and Sandwich Tern019. Next, it was into the wetlands proper. We started out at a small marsh that hosted Cattle Egret020, Great Egret021, Cinnamon Teal022, White-cheeked Pintail023, Greater Yellowlegs024, Lesser Yellowlegs025, Striated Heron026, Snowy Egret027, Wren-like Rushbird028, Black-crowned Night-Heron029, Harris's Hawk030 [Bay-winged Hawk], and Osprey031. We then crossed a two-lane road and explored a marshy area that was considerably more extensive than the one we had just been in. Passerines included Grassland Yellow-Finches032 singing in the tall grasses all around us, a male Blue-black Grassquit033 jumping up and down in characteristic fashion, and several Peruvian Meadowlarks034 proclaiming from tall perches. Several of us heard what I believe was a Plumbeous Rail035-x, but I could not get Victor on the vocalization so we had to let that one go. We made our way to an observation tower, where we saw a handful of stunning Great Grebes036, a dumpy Andean Duck037, a fly-by Croaking Ground-Dove038, several Gray-headed Gulls039, and a few Pied-billed Grebes040 and Andean Coots041. Our next stop was a sandy plain with sparse vegetation, where Victor pulled in a Peruvian Thick-Knee042 sitting on the ground. We continued from here toward Villa Beach, right on the Pacific Ocean, stopping-or at least slowing down-along the way for Groove-billed Ani043, Little Blue Heron044, and Common Moorhen045. From the beach, we added Elegant Tern046, Gray Gull047, and American Oystercatcher048. Meanwhile, we savored the great views of Peruvian Boobies falling to the sea like missiles and of Peruvian Pelicans cutting low across the water. Heading back to our vehicle, we nabbed an anticlimactic Rock Pigeon049. On our way out of los Pantanos de Villa, we stopped off at a marsh along a busy road that provided us with excellent views of White-tufted Grebe050, Puna Ibis051, Black-necked Stilt052, and both morphs of Andean Coot. Victor accompanied us back to the hotel, and then it was time for a quick respite and then a remarkable buffet lunch at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant called Puro Perú. In the afternoon, we toured downtown Lima. The venue wasn't ideal for ornithological studies, but we did manage to sneak in some birding along the way. The courtyard of an old cathedral in the central square was downright birdy, with such species as Cinereous Conebill053, Vermilion Flycatcher054, Blue-gray Tanager055, and Amazilia Hummingbird056. We found our obligatory House Sparows057 here, too. We came across Rock Pigeons everywhere, which was no surprise. But we were surprised by the ubiquity and abundance of Black Vultures-in view constantly, wheeling about the city skies and perched atop modern office buildings and colonial-era cathedrals.
In the late afternoon, we made a quick visit to El Parque de Olivar. This ancient olive garden hosted the same basic suite of species from the hotel grounds (Eared Dove, Rufous-collared Sparrow, etc.) and from the cathedral courtyard (Cinereous Conebill, Amazilia Hummingbird, etc.), plus a few new ones: Scrub Blackbird058, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet059, and Bananaquit060. Along with the hordes of Amazilia Hummingbirds, we had a briefly glimpsed view of a bird that was probably an Oasis Hummingbird061-x. Night falls quickly at low latitudes, and we were soon on our way back to dinner. The last birds of the day: a citywide chorus of Rufous-collared Sparrows, singly loudly and sweetly above the roar of traffic and hustle-and-bustle of the night markets. Sunday, 19 February 2006
We got back to the hotel by mid-morning, where we got ready for lunch and then for our flight to Iquitos. The descent into Iquitos was spectacular: We came down through low cloud cover and were overwhelmed by the sight of the rainforest stretching from horizon to horizon and cleaved down the middle by the Amazon River. It was raining lightly at the Iquitos airport, which hosted a few Tropical Kingbirds and Black Vultures. We got our stuff and then met up with our guides for the coming week: Victor Ramirez-Arévalo and Rosario Fernández. On the bus ride from the airport to the port of Iquitos, Rosario regaled us with commentary on the history and local culture of the region, while Russet-backed Oropendolas068 flew by in sizeable flocks. At nightfall, we visited the city square, inhabited by a mime and a Tropical Kingbird. Next, it was on to La Turmalina, the ship that was to be our home for the next week. We set out right away, upstream along the Amazon. It was dark now, but the bright floodlights of La Turmalina provided sufficient illumination for us to make out several Collared Plovers069 flushing up from sandbars along the river's edge. Monday, 20 February 2006
After breakfast, it stopped raining. In fact, the sun had come out, and Greater Yellow-headed Vultures098 and Turkey Vultures099 were about now. These two species would be among the most conspicuous and characteristic sights of the days to come. We were back in the excursion boat by mid-morning, this time for exploration of a wooded backwater on the other side of the river. Our first new species was the Horned Screamer100. Bizarre, huge, and loud, it is one of the iconic species of the Amazon basin. Next, we added three rather more prosaic species: Roadside Hawk101, Smooth-billed Ani102, and Ruddy Pigeon103. Then, another rainforest icon: three Hoatzins104 up in a cecropia. After admiring the Hoatzins, we angled in close to shore, where we got all sorts of goodies. The low-down: Dusky-headed Parakeet105, Mealy Parrot106, Hooded Tanager107, Plumbeous Kite108, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker109, White-eared Jacamar110 [Chestnut Jacamar], Lesser Kiskadee111, Brown-chested Martin112, Gray-breasted Martin113, Festive Parrot114, Red-and-white Spinetail115, Short-tailed Parrot116, Piratic Flycatcher117, Great Black-Hawk118, and Crane Hawk119. We headed back to La Turmalina for lunch and then siesta. A few of us forewent siesta, though, and birded from the upper deck. We were traveling up the Ucayali now, and we saw the following along the shore: White-throated Toucan120 [Cuvier's Toucan], Riverside Tyrant121, Masked Tityra122, and Eastern Kingbird123. Of particular interest was the Eastern Kingbird, a species that we would go on to see thousands of-mainly in large flocks passing overhead, but also pausing silently in the treetops from time to time. It was interesting that the nearctic-migrant kingbirds often mixed with flocks of austral-migrant Fork-tailed Flycatchers.
After a mid-afternoon lecture, we were back in the excursion boat for a late-afternoon jaunt into a long backwater channel running south from the Ucayali. Here we added Black-throated Mango124, Bank Swallow125, Swallow-wing126 [Swallow-winged Puffbird], Black-fronted Nunbird127, Chestnut Woodpecker128, Slate-colored Hawk129, Capped Heron130, Sand-colored Nighthawk131, Plum-throated Cotinga132, Crimson-crested Woodpecker133, Greater Ani134, Silver-beaked Tanager135, Ivory-billed Araçari136, Masked Crimson Tanager137, Chestnut-eared Araçari138, and Bare-necked Fruitcrow139. In the non-avian arena, we saw a breaching pink river dolphin, a species that flourishes here in the headwaters of the Amazon, thousands of miles from the ocean. We returned to La Turmalina for music (a nightly feature of our Amazon journey) and dinner, and then we headed out in search of nocturnal creatures. Fishing bats flew all around us, and Rosario made the call on a sleepy kinkajou. There were birds, too: a staring Boat-billed Heron140 and a Ladder-tailed Nightjar141 sitting on a fallen log. Tuesday, 21 February 2006
It was back to La Turmalina, and then onto the tiny hamlet of Carocurahuaytillo. En route, a few lucky participants got to see an Amazonian Umbrellabird153 flying across the Ucayali. In Carocurahuaytillo, we saw a Bicolored Conebill154 and an uncountable Tui Parakeet walking among the piglets underneath a thatch hut. Our late-afternoon excursion got underway with a problematic Little Hermit155-x and then a fabulously unproblematic pair of Blue-and-yellow Macaws156 up on the highest perch of a preposterously tall dead tree. Then a bunch of other goodies: American Pygmy Kingfisher157 [Pygmy Kingfisher], Purple-throated Fruitcrow158, Little Cuckoo159, Gray-rumped Swift160, Squirrel Cuckoo161, Chestnut-fronted Macaw162, and Green Ibis163. The nighttime excursion got underway with Victor wrestling a caiman, subduing it (sort of), and bringing it on board for us to admire. A little while later, we came upon a Common Potoo164-big head, tiny body-sitting atop and staring out from a stalk at the water's edge. We wound down the excursion out in the middle of a small inlet. The experience was enchanting: The boat operator turned off the outboard motor, and we drifted amid a chorus of mellow Tropical Screech-Owls165 and twangy-voiced anurans. The clear night sky provided us with such austral-summer celestial objects as Canopus, Achernar, and the Greater Cloud of Magellan. Wednesday, 22 February 2006
It was getting on toward lunchtime, but not first without adding White-eyed Parakeet176, Bright-rumped Attila177 and White-shouldered Antbird178. We ate lunch on the excursion boat, during which time we were not perhaps actively looking at birds. But we couldn't help but hear them: throaty Scarlet-crowned Barbets, pure-toned White-shouldered Antbirds, emphatic Bright-rumped Attilas, fractious Red-throated Caracaras, and the haunting Undulated Tinamou. Meanwhile, we admired the now-familiar vocalizations of the Black-fronted Nunbird (frenzied), the Buff-breasted Wren (rollicking), the White-throated Toucan (quiet yelping), the Russet-backed Oropendola (a giant water droplet), and the Black-capped Donacobius [Black-capped Mockingthrush] (like a car alarm). A special treat was a giant blue morpho butterfly (the wingspan is close to one foot) that passed right by the boat. After an early-afternoon siesta and mid-afternoon lecture, we headed out again in the excursion boat. We started out with a pair of Swallow-tailed Kites179 flapping about like giant butterflies, and we looked at and (in particular) listened to two tricky species: Short-crested Flycatcher180 and Plumbeous Pigeon181. All the while, huge flocks of Eastern Kingbirds and Fork-tailed Flycatchers flew by. For a non-avian diversion, we studied a three-toed sloth-one of about ten that we saw during our time in the Iquitos area-high up in a riverside tree.
Later, back aboard La Turmalina, we squeezed in some productive birding in the moments just before sun-down. The highlight was four Red-and-green Macaws182 flying behind the ship. Some other odds and ends: a lovely Plum-throated Cotinga up on a snag, Plumbeous Kites aloft everywhere, and the usual White-winged Parakeet [Canary-winged Parakeet] cacophony at nightfall. By the way, we probably observed more of these noisy parakeets than of any other species during our voyage. We had thousands at nightfall on several days, and we saw a dozen or so flocks of 10-50 during the daylight hours each day. Thursday, 23 February 2006 Our late-morning excursion started out with the first (rather tardily so) Boat-billed Flycatcher187 of the week, up on a snag. In general, the birding was slow: We listened to White-shouldered Antbirds, we saw a Swallow-wing [Swallow-winged Puffbird] or two, and we were forever in the company of small flocks of hirundinids and psittacids. In the non-avian category, we got face-to-face with a surreptitious saddle-backed tamarin-one of many species of primates that we observed during the week.
We spent the mid-afternoon on land, up in a terra firme forest near the Suite Marañon eco-lodge. Right after we got off the boat, we came upon an obliging mixed-species foraging flock that included numerous Masked Crimson Tanagers and Silver-beaked Tanagers, an apparent Mouse-colored Tyrannulet188-x, a scowling Red-eyed Vireo, several Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers189-x, and two Buff-throated Saltators190. We got past the grounds of the Suite Marañon and continued into the forest, picking up White-bearded Manakin191 and Golden-headed Manakin192 (both species were on leks), White-chested Puffbird193, and an up-close but furtive Wedge-billed Woodcreeper194. The woodcreeper sighting drove home the point that birding in the rainforest interior (as opposed to being out in the open on the excursion boats) can be very difficult: Even though the woodcreeper stayed within 50 feet of the trail for several minutes, it was surprisingly hard to catch a glimpse of it. The moral of this story is that it certainly is worth the effort to learn the vocalizations of rainforest species. Speaking of vocalizations, our next bird was the fantastic Screaming Piha195, giving its piercing song over and over again. After that, we had an amazingly cooperative Blue-cheeked Jacamar196 sitting on a point-blank snag; in the next moment, and also amazingly, it was joined by a Yellow-billed Jacamar197. The two of them were catching ant alates. Next was a Thick-billed Euphonia198, and then thunder and lighting, and then rain, and then a retreat to the Suite Marañon. Here we met up with the wandering Terry O'Neill, who reported that he had found a Band-tailed Antbird199 while the rest of us were out dodging lighting strikes. After the music hour and a typically sumptuous dinner aboard La Turmalina, a few of us trekked back into the dripping-wet terra firme forest beyong the Suite Marañon to listen to what Rosario calls the rainforest symphony. We heard no birds on this soggy evening, but there were anurans everywhere-with the calls of the poison arrow dart frogs especially evocative. Friday, 24 February 2006
Next it was out of the excursion boat and onto a boardwalk-and-tower complex on the north shore of the Marañon River. Along the boardwalk we added Lined Seedeater211 and Turquoise Tanager212. Up on the tower, we saw a fidgety Double-banded Pygmy-Tyrant213 and more to the point we heard it: a loud, utterly unbirdlike buzz. We saw two Hoatzins up here, too. On the walk back to the excursion boat, we got great good looks at a Pygmy Antwren214 and another Straight-billed Woodcreeper. Our late-morning activity was to be a visit to a shaman (seriously...), but we persuaded our hosts to let us go back to the boardwalk-and-tower complex. The birding was a little slower this time, but we delighted nonetheless in such finds as Purple Honeycreeper215, Solitary Cacique216 [Solitary Black Cacique], and an enchanting Warbling Antbird217. On the way back down from the tower, we admired a Sapphire-spangled Emerald218. And a random sampling of odds and ends: Red-crowned Ant-Tanager, Thick-billed Euphonia, White-bearded Manakin, White-necked Jacobin, Social Flycatcher, and so forth and so on.
It was lunchtime now, and then siesta. La Turmalina made its way downstream along the Rio Marañon, past the confluence with the Rio Ucayali, and then down the Amazon toward Iquitos. We had one last late-afternoon trip in the excursion boat, and this one was fine indeed. It started out with a conveniently perched and somewhat vocal Gray-crowned Flycatcher219-a species that, truth be told, we had been seeing and hearing throughout the week but without putting a name to it. The next additions were more dramatic: an up-close Black Caracara220 devouring a walking catfish, a Spangled Cotinga221 on a nearby snag, a Lineated Woodpecker222 at a nest cavity, and a Rufous-browed Peppershrike223-x prowling about a streamside tangle. It was time to power back to La Turmalina, but we brought the excursion to a boat to a halt as we approached the main channel of the Amazon-for one last opportunity to savor the birds of the rainforest. Our last birds: Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Solitary Cacique [Solitary Black Cacique], Gray-capped Flycatcher, and Large-billed Tern. Large-billed Tern had also been, coincidentally enough, the first bird of our Amazon voyage, back at dawn on Monday morning. Saturday, 25 February 2006
Back in Lima, we dealt with transportation, luggage transfer, lunch, and then ... a nice afternoon back at El Parque de Olivar. The only-and final-addition to our list was a small flock of Hooded Siskins224, but we were not disappointed with our haul of now-familiar species in urban Lima: Cinereous Conebills and Blue-gray Tanagers in the treetops, Amazilia Hummingbirds and the occasional Peruvian Sheartail (we finally got to see a male) in the flower gardens, Croaking Ground-Doves and Rufous-collared Sparrows underfoot (and notable for their remarkable vocalizations), and Saffron Finches and Blue-black Grassquits in clearings. We wound down the afternoon along embassy row, a little bit to the west of El Parque de Olivar. Here, amid the guards armed with machine guns, we saw a pair of Scarlet-fronted Parakeets at a nest site in the side of an old house, several more Amazilia Hummingbirds, and another candidate Oasis Hummingbird or two. We got back to the hotel, where our last bird of our trip to Peru was the same species-the same individual, probably-as the one that started it all off. It was the adult male Peregrine Falcon, flying in toward his roost just north of the hotel. trip report by Ted Floyd () Notes on Problematic Species:
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